(Well, lunch, to be exact, and I’d rather a rerun of that tasty, thought-provoking interlude than what I sat through thirty-odd years ago at the Ritzy in Brixton. But a post needs a title.)

“You’re talking [for he is too polite to say ‘pontificating’] about cooking from scratch using locally sourced ingredients, but you’re swilling it down with French wine?”

“Perfectly paired French wine,” I venture, “and I can recommend some lovely, local English wine* too.”

“What’s wrong with local beer then?”

“Beer? Beer is for…quenching your thirst, drinking with friends, packets of crisps…isn’t it?”

So here’s where we are. Richard is going to educate me about beer. I am going to open my mind. We’ve strenuous work ahead of us: hundreds of beers to taste, sample dishes to cook, pairings to document. Will you come back and see how we’re getting on?

*A caution: if you are not an Olympic cyclist do not attempt a whole case of Denbies on your handlebars on the A24.