Mild, what is it good for?

Thanks to JW in the April edition of What’s Brewing, this has been a hobby horse of mine for some time.

Notwithstanding the important part mild has played in our beer history and the millions whose thirst it has slaked over the years I think it is time to move on. Mild seems to have been on the verge of extinction for several decades now with campaigns regularly held to save it.

banksI well remember the decent beer desert that was the West Midlands in the 90’s. Banks’ Mild was extremely popular there but coming from the south I was severely disappointed. It was a style not often seen down south and I saw the reason why 😉

May is now fixed as ‘Mild Month’ by CAMRA, we are urged to get publicans to stock a mild and to try some milds. In my experience pubs stock beers they can sell and if they don’t regularly have a mild on then there is probably a good reason for it. Incidentally the list originally posted (currently down at time of writing) had only one mild in London listed, Clarkshaw’s in case you are interested.

It obliges me to point out, that among others in London, Hop Stuff Brewery has recentlyHSB Amarillo mild released an Amarillo Mild. Much though I love this brewery (being an investor also) and liked the sound of it the result is just a nicely made, unremarkable beer, not enough orangey Amarillo character for me. Perhaps I am missing the point of Mild? It’s happened before.

I like the idea of boosting the flavour with Amarillo of vanilla (East London Brewing in case you are wondering) but results consistently underwhelm.

As you can tell I am not a fan of mild, even more inventive modern ones. Tastes evolve, styles come in and out fashion, it’s normal. I believe beer drinkers have voted with their bellies. There will always be a place for mild but let’s stop flogging a dead horse and celebrate new beers instead.

What’s Brewing, February – March, 2015 – Agony Column

Whats Brewing FebMar 15It’s been a while but these people do need help.

In February, SK of Dumfries believes that some microbreweries are ‘sneaking their product in under the radar’ due to lack of definitive terms. Indeed many of these enterprises produce NO REAL ALE! They are riding on the coat tails of the burgeoning real market apparently, ahem, I think you will find it is the other way round actually. And CAMRA’s initial raison d’être? Good beer, imho.

Many thanks to TW of Cambridge, acknowledging that post-CAMRA, over 40 years on things have changed a tad. He is certainly down with the kidz.

In March, the real ale brigade are out in force. Oh dear where to start? A nemesis of mine, DS of Chelmsford questions whether TW of Cambridge should be in CAMRA. It’s been a dilemma of mine too. Some of us prefer to foment change from within though. DJH of Woking simplifies matters, craft beer is keg beer, pressurised bright beer in fact. He clearly hasn’t had a pint of London Murky recently.

The balance is provided by IM of Aberdeen who has noticed 20-somethings enjoying fantastic beer in Brewdog bars, as anyone unblinkered will do. Why should CAMRA support Belgian and Czech beers but not artisanal UK beers?

CAMRA – Whither or Wither

camraCAMRA have been troubling me for some time. I know there will always be the hardliners who believe that the term real ale is enshrined in stone and should never change but what worried me more was the article in What’s Brewing January by Steve Bury, one of CAMRA’s top 40 campaigners.

Entitled ‘Is Campaign starting to lose its way?’ he fears that CAMRA is starting to send out mixed messages about craft beer. For Steve the word artisan conjures up a picture of a poor French tradesman. Leaving aside the rampant stereotyping, no Steve, an artisan is a skilled tradesman not a mass production factory worker – and exactly who I want to brew my beer.

If my tipple of choice is ‘craft beer’ then perhaps I should be considering whether to be a member of CAMRA at all, I am Steve, I am. The Cyclops system which helps bar staff describe beers is another evil because it includes beers that are not real ale. Perhaps a simpler system would be just to put ‘good beer’ on the handpumps and ‘bad beer’ on the keg lines.

Where we agree is that the lines are blurring. Where we disagree is whether this is a good or bad thing. The definition of real ale is a millstone around CAMRA’s neck completely ignoring the taste of the beer and the care with which it has been made.

Let me take you back…when the founding fathers sat down what was their aim? Was it to prescribe the only method for brewing (ignoring that of the rest of the world) or was it to try to promote good, well made beer? Remember, back then there was no good keg beer and small brewers were predominantly cask ale. The definition of real ale was a neat way to define the good beer, simple as.

And so it remained for another twenty years or so when new brewers, often Americans(!), decided that they could make beer just as well for keg dispense with the added bonuses of consistency and shelf life. And boy, did they add flavour along with the CO2.

I have always liked or disliked beer according to flavour, and yes, carbonation can be too high, just like real ale can be too flat. If I am taking a bottle of beer home with me I don’t want to have to interrogate the vendor as to production method, I want to judge on taste. Surely the founding fathers wouldn’t disagree with that?

Personally I want to support the small, artisanal producer over the big brewer – though I do respect what some of them do. Surely the founding fathers wouldn’t disagree with that?

As Steve Bury suggested, I have been seriously considering resigning from CAMRA on principle. I want to be part of an inclusive group that promotes small over big, flavour over blandness, moves with the times and attracts a demographic I can associate with.

At the risk of rampant stereotyping, ten years ago, aspirational young women were drinking a glass of chardonnay (nothing wrong with that btw), now they are down the Bermondsey beer mile drinking a half of 6% modern IPA from nice glassware and talking to the producer. They are not drinking a pint of 4% session bitter in an old pub and choosing between a windows or sleeve glass. The demographic at CAMRA beer festivals, however interesting and good the beer, is plain depressing.

Wake up CAMRA and smell the new hops!

What’s Brewing, December 2014 – Agony Column

I do my best to help the troubled letter writers to What’s Brewing. No doubt suffused with a warm glow from ordinary bitters repackaged as ‘Christmas Ales’ the editors have picked an uncontroversial bunch of letters this month.

Instead, in preparation we have a discussion of the ‘Drinking beer is the healthy option’ headline. Since when did headlines have to be factually true? They got you to read the article. PB of Stockport and SD of Liverpool, you have been suckered in to wasting your ink.

Short measures, price of pints and children (apparently it’s up to the parents) are all mentioned but it is a tired collection of letters. I need more material!

What’s Brewing, November 2014 – Agony Column

Whats Brewing Nov14I do my best to help the troubled letter writers to What’s Brewing. After last months letter from MH of Axminster (Pubs being turned into crèches), it’s official, Children are the new battleground!

On which side is CAMRA going to come down?

JG of Glasgow believes that MH infers that children should be banned from all public places! On the other hand perhaps she would like to see beer served in crèches – now there’s an idea!

PS of Nottingham applauds the zero tolerance approach of some landlords. He is right in blaming the parents though.

PJS of Wandsworth tackles the Berliner Weisse questions raised by Roger Protz and suggests a small Berlin brewery. Of course there are numerous good British Berliner Weisses nowadays but they are not ‘real ale’, it’s ok to drink the Berlin brewed ones because…?

DS of Chelmsford is back, happy to be perceived as a ‘dead horse flogger’ in this nation of animal lovers! 1970’s style beer is hard to find, of brands that are still available the keg beers have generally improved, whereas some of the cask beers have in some cases got worse (viz. Young’s Special and many more) – think on.

What’s Brewing, October 2014 – Agony Column

October1I do my best to help the troubled writers to What’s Brewing. But first, let’s be serious for a moment.

To quote from Pete Brown on the front page, “…a growing understanding of real ale as a crafted product…” – so we are only a short step away from saying that real ale is craft beer. Then CAMRA can say that craft beer is a good thing taken with a pickled curate’s egg of course? The sensible side of CAMRA is slowly finding it’s voice. Perhaps it realises that embracing some the beers that currently don’t conform it will gain more new converts than it will lose old diehards.

Now, the letters,

BY of Rochester doesn’t own a computer and blames the fact that he is of an elder age group. Sorry. No. You have had 20 years to come to terms with computers. Being of pensionable age means you get free courses and there is always the public library. For all but an impoverished few not using computer technology is a lifestyle choice. Lower processing costs make discounts for online ordering a sensible choice.

SB of Radlett is horrified that the Cyclops scheme is supporting lagers. It is clearly discredited and “will only cause confusion about what CAMRA stands for”. Heaven forbid that CAMRA stands for good beer or lager for that matter.

GB of Milford is disappointed that microbreweries keep changing their offering. So that’s an all year saison, a heavy with the barbie and a golden ale on a freezing winters day then. I guess he buys his asparagus from Peru all year round too.

And finally, a really excellent star letter, from MH of Axminster complaining about pubs being converted into crèches, now that’s a campaign I can support.